Porosity, how to choose the products?
Welcome back* Curlyn*,
In this article from the Academy I talk to you about porosity: what it consists of, the resulting behavior of the hair, management based on the level and above all HOW TO DISCOVER YOURS. If you haven't read it yet, I recommend you do so before continuing here.
Today I want to focus on how to choose products based on the porosity you have.
LOW
For leave-in products, prefer liquid and light textures , therefore liquid sprays, mousses and spray creams.
Limit the use of gel because it passes through the cuticles with great difficulty. If you must use it, dilute it a little with water to facilitate penetration.
For both formulated products and pure raw materials, opt for light components such as almonds and grape seeds and light butters, such as cocoa butter.
Coconut oil , given its high penetrating capacity, can be good as a protein restructuring component to be used every now and then, but it must be massaged well.
Other heavier and full-bodied oils and butters are not to be avoided, but should be used in certain conditions such as pre-shampoo or hot conditioning treatments and covered by a plastic cap.
Contrary to what many people think, low porosity hair tolerates proteins well, but they do not need them as frequently as medium or high porosity hair because the lowered cuticles retain them better once infused.
Opt for hydrolyzed proteins , because the liquid texture facilitates penetration and the water agent adds a hydrating effect.
As far as cleansing the skin and hair is concerned, it is necessary to carry out a deep cleansing 1 or 2 times a month, so equip yourself with a purifying shampoo .
AVERAGE
The hair is well predisposed to more full-bodied leave-in products such as lotion, milk and light cream, while for formulations and raw materials you have more room for maneuver as the fiber welcomes both light products well (to be applied in greater quantities than the low p.), both medium-weight components and heavier components which I still recommend using in "hot" treatments.
Deep cleansing with purifying shampoo can be done as needed and if your hair doesn't get heavy you can even do it once every six weeks. For other wash times I recommend using a sulphate-free hydrating shampoo once a week. If you have to wash in between, opt for a co-wash or a very delicate cleansing cream.
The protein components must be increased because the cuticles open more and therefore what is added comes out more quickly.
The management of medium porosity hair is more similar to that of high porosity hair, because the cuticles must be lowered in order to retain the components and a first step is to use low pH and conditioning products.
HIGH
Hair needs heavy components and very consistent textures , both in terms of already formulated products and in terms of raw materials.
It is essential that the cuticles are lowered, so that the hair fiber has a good retention capacity and hydration is well sealed .
Gels help tame the cuticles, prefer hydrating ones because they help you maintain hydration. Great allies are those based on humectants, such as aloe vera, components capable of absorbing humidity from the air and infusing it into the hair. However, be careful in the colder months because this ability can facilitate frizz and loss of definition.
For cleansing, choose a delicate shampoo without sulphates and with a low pH, which will help you keep your hair and skin clean without depriving them of the hydration and sebum oils they need.
If you have to insert quick washes between one wash time after another, equip yourself with co-wash or delicate cleansing cream.
To condition, prefer masks to balms, because in the former the molecular size of the ingredients is smaller and this helps them reach deeper.
For this reason it is recommended to apply the conditioner after the mask.
Among the "home" remedies to close the cuticles, an acid rinse with a mix of apple cider vinegar and water is highly recommended. Conditioner rinsed with cold water: brightness, seals in hydration, fewer tangles.
Protein treatments are among the pillars of the routine because the fibers must be filled and restructured frequently, especially if the high porosity depends on chemical treatments.
I would like to specify that these are general indications and individual situations may be interpreted differently, especially due to the fact that other than porosity, hair body, hair density and volume come into play.
A good starting point to start taking care of your hair is the POROSITY BOX , designed to get the most out of the synergy of the products' active ingredients.
I recommend that you go and read the in-depth article on Porosity , which is essential to have a complete picture of the phenomenon.
Finally, don't forget to schedule a free consultation to get advice on which products to buy for your routine.
You can book by filling out this form .
To the next article,
TO.